...des artistes en villégiature ont dépensé des fortunes au casino de Deauville. Les millions passaient d'une main à l'autre, les demi-mondaines s'extasiaient derrière leur éventail, la nuit bleuissait le menton des joueurs et, parfois, les destins basculaient sur un dix de pique malencontreux, un rouge impair facétieux.
Une nuit d'août 1958, une jeune fille aux cheveux courts empile les plaques sur le tapis vert. Fiévreuse. Ivre de whisky et d'adrénaline. Françoise Sagan n'a que 23 ans. Depuis le succès de Bonjour tristesse, son premier roman publié quatre ans auparavant, elle jette l'argent par les fenêtres, signe des chèques criblés de zéros comme des bandits trépassés à la chevrotine, distille sa solitude dans le bourbon, flambe jusqu'à l'aube.
"Rien ne va plus", clame le croupier. Sagan vient de jouer son va-tout sur le huit. Le matin commence à rosir. L'émotion sans doute. La boule cliquette. Clac-clac-clac-clac. Clac. S'arrête sur le huit. La romancière empoche, le sourire en guingois, son gain de 80.000 francs et s'en retourne au manoir de Breuil, une demeure dévorée de lierre qu'elle a loué pour les vacances, à Equemauville. Et qu'elle est censée quitter précisément en ce jour du 8 août.
"Vous partez après l'inventaire ou vous l'achetez. C'est 80.000 francs", lui assène en substance le propriétaire, frais comme l'oeil à 8 heures du matin. "J'avais la flemme de faire l'inventaire. Je lui ai dit : "Je les ai sur moi" et je lui est mis les billets dans la main", racontera-t-elle plus tard, dans un éclat de rire.
Ce refuge offert par le hasard, sur le staccato d'une roulette deauvaullaise, sera le seul bien de Françoise Sagan, enfant de bohème perpétuellement accablée de dettes.
Source : L'Express du 20 juillet 2011, article page 87 "Les flambeurs - des as, désatres"

Good Evening Folks
I have some items up for grabs tonight. Please do not send chats as i will not receive them. Please send a PM directly. Everything listed is up for grabs and i will entertain fair offers on multiple items.
Proof https://imgur.com/a/x8Omcby
Pics part 1 https://imgur.com/a/G14wYuF
Pics Part 2 https://imgur.com/a/wMGudxh
2x 1957 Mariazell 25 Schilling coins 80% silver $12ea or 2 for $20
2x walkers 1937/1941 $19pair
1892/1893 Columbian Expedition $25 for the pair
1883 Liberty V Nickel "no cents"- $14
100 Franc Casino Deauville 20 gram sterling proof like (really cool piece) - $22
1924 USSR Ruble Silver coin (My fav in the bunch) - $48
1909 UK Gold Half Sovereign - $235
1995 Cook Island Statue of liberty gold coin 1.244g- $92
6x Sterling from "American triumphs" set 34.7grams $25ea or $140 for the set
1970s Israeli Mint sets- $5ea or 4 for $17
2020P Emergency Issue MS69 ASE - $50
2019W 1st Day Issue MS70 ASE- $54
2017W MS70 ASE- $45
2000W ungraded ASE - $27
1921 Morgan- $23
1881 Morgan- $36
A few notes:
1900 Dominion of Canada 25 cent note: $12
1960 Unc Israeli Lirot Note- $35
1928 Graded 50 Litu Lithuanian note- $50
Payment options- PPFF, Cashapp or venmo.
Shipping: USPS Tracked Add $4 for shipping.
Anything over $200 will be shipped with signature conformation and I'll eat the additional cost above $4.
If you're buying just one item for under $50 ill send in a risky envelope at no charge if you don't want to pay for tracked shipping.
Im posting this kinda late so if i don't get back to you tonight I will respond in the morning. Thanks!!

1930-Birth of Xavier's mother, Geneviève DDL in Versailles
1931-birth of xavier's father, Hubert DDL in Senlis
1955-they get married and settle in Cannes. Hubert is an aeronautical engineer.In September 1957,The couple had their first child, Véronique. But Geneviève, who has always been fragile and introvert, could not bear the distance from her family wanted to return to Versailles to be closer to her parents. They settled at 50 rue du Maréchal-Foch.
1960The mother of the murderer had created a prayer group called ′′ Philadelphia ′′.
January 20 1960-birth of Xavier DDL
1966-Birth of Christine DDL.
1972-Hubert starts an affair with his secretary, Catherine, and left home around 1972 .
1974-Xavier and Emmanuel Teneur meet for the first time on island Brehat. Emmanuel is 14 and Xavier is 13.
In late 70s both of them will become part of a prayer group Xavier's mother founded.
1979-
-Xavier's father, Hubert goes to Ivory Coast with his mistress.
-Xavier is doing small jobs, handling etc. To soon he wants to be a husband and a father, he reconnects with Agnes Hodanger a girl from good family he met in High School.
1982-
-Agnes and Xavier get engaged at ages 20 and 21. During the summer of his engagement Xavier meets a german girl, Claudia. Tall, blonde a camping model. He falls in love with her and leaves Agnes. Agnes returns to Versailles alone meanwhile Xavier travels between Hanover and Versaiiles.
Agnes was miserable first the break up with Xavier, later her mother's cancer and death. Agnes focuses on her job as typing secretary and devotes her free time to her father and brothers. To forget about Xavier she focuses on a new man, a waiter working in a bar not far away from her home, she gets pregnant and gives birth to a boy, Arthur in July 1990. The waiter will not accept the kid as his and will leave her.
Meanwhile Xavier goes to the south, first he goes to Aix-en-Provence. He is finally free. He joined Véronique who lives in Draguignan. Emmanuel Teneur is of course with him. He was hired as a commercial by Société des fertilisers Monnot (SEM), where he sold garden equipment for the PACA region. That's where he meets Michel Retif, also commercial. Michel is opposite of Emmanuel. Adventurers, womanizer,outgoing. They become best friends quickly. They both love USA.
1989-Xavier is fired from SEM. He is single and free. Him and Michel are going to the USA. Finally they will go to America 3 times. They apparently visited 48 out of 50 states. First trip is founded by their unemployment benefit. For the following, they invent a combine. When they return to France, they bring back American vehicles, those Cadillac's and Ford Mustang's which always fascinated Xavier, to resell them with a significant margin. Both friends plan to extend the adventure, this time in New Caledonia, where Xavier's other cousin works as a banker for Crédit Agricole. And then one day. Xavier suddenly announces to Michel that he cancels everything. Passing through Versailles, he saw Agnes again. This one is pregnant with a baby boy. Xavier leaves his freedom and plans and decides to go back to France to take care of pregnant Agnes.
They will be married in 1992 (or September 1991). Emmanuel Teneur becomes a godfather of couples first child, Thomas.
1994-Birth of Anne.
1995-The apocalypse that Xavier's mother was prophesying. Christine sleeps with every single male member of the prayer group. After the apocalypse doesn't happen. Xavier's older sister leaves France.
July 4th 1995-ex member of prayer group sends documents about prayer group to a lawyer of Montpellier.
1997-Birth of Benoit.
1998-
-Agnès having lost both parents inherits 3,000,000 Francs, ie 400,000 € (cash, securities, real estates)
-Family vacations in the USA.
-Start of the Commercial Route.
-Rent of a pretty villa with swimming pool in Pornic.
2002
-The family moved to the USA. ( children enrolled in school, Nov 2002 Aug 2003 the family lives at the Little Inn by the Sea Motel, LAUDERDALE usa)
2003-
Family moves to Nantes.
2004-
Beginning of financial problems. Agnes' inheritance is slowly finishing.
Agnes is gaining lots of weight. She also starts a romance with Michel. She complains on online forums about her marriage etc.
Ending of the year is a spiral of failures for Xavier.
2005-
Agnes and Xavier seperate in July one of the reason was Agnes refusing to give Xavier the rest of her money. Also Xavier punches(?) Arthur . Agnes fills a complain to the police. She loses 20 kilograms (around 44 pounds)
March 2005- Massage between Emmanuel and Xavier ''captain and his sailboat returned to the boat''(after the investigation Emmanuel says that Xavier was the one who knew where his will is)
October 2005-Xavier comes back home to the family.
December 2005- Agnes still has an affair with Xavier's friend. Xavier writes an open letter to the family, that makes him look innocent, he didn't cheat, he wasn't violent etc. Xavier also writes resentment to Michel.
2006
January-Xavier puts Agnes under pressure and she confesses to having an affair. She said that this thing was only virtual.
Xavier starts trio with Michel. He also starts humiliating Agnes even more because she decided to go back to traditional church.
22 Feb. 2006-Agnes' e-mail to Claudia “you are the only girl Xav really loved a long time after me".
March 17 xddl “hello pigs” to Agnès and MR… how to measure penis. ((His is obviously competent!))
DEC 25, 2006 XAV writes about his loss of faith. While Agnes reconnects with the traditional Church. Big disagreement.
2007
Xav lists the faults of Agnes ("totally impatient and intolerant of everyone" "Arthur Anne and him in particular").
MARCH 15, 2007 XAV writes to Agnès: "I would spend my days cursing you () and suspecting you"
APRIL 24, 2007 Agnès believes XAV is still under the thumb of his mother, he reassures her.
Agnès worried about the hold of CDDL and GDDL on Xav talks about it to her prayer group in Nantes.
August 2007- Xavier basically robs Emmanuel of 6000 euros and his family jewelry.
To his ex-mistress he had said: "if you give me 1,000,000 I will leave everything"
2008
Agnes is obese and depressed. Her therapist tells her to divorce her husband.
Xavier writes to Vero about how he lost his faith. He fills files / his reflections, exegesis etc. ((His mother Geneviève has a whole cupboard full of Files with articles etc. on ALL kinds of SUBJECTS)).
2009
Agnes working part-time: 500 Euros per month AGNES Ericksonian therapy, homeopathy, osteopath "visionary of the brain" ... she joins several prayer groups
February 2009, xddl finds Catherine V
APRIL 21, meeting CV, relationship begins, romantic weekend, Relais et Chateaux, xav pays.
from MAY xav talks about his company, to convince her / his CRYSTAL project, CV accountants say: not viable
CV nevertheless yields 50,000 EUROS on JUNE 3, 2009, cashed on June 9.
- July, CV presents Xavier to her friends / birthdays. Dinner with her brother.
50,000 cashed on JUNE 9, June 12 golf cabriolet gift to AGNES, and tour of the grand dukes ALONE in cities with casinos, Deauville, La Baule, Dinard (August), xddl writes checks to all creditors. At the end of 2009, nothing remains of the 50,000. He must repay the 50,000 on July 3, 2010. In June he tries to soften it "drop of water for you". End of summer CV confides in friends. OCTOBER XAV ACKNOWLEDGES HAVING NOTHING INVESTED, he just used money to repay his debts. And paid for the hotel when they were together! With the mistress's money! CV cuts her contact with him.
Philadelphia reveals the miracle of Saint Christ. CDDL: “Jesus wants us to ACT, Jesus' next offensive will be through the internet!” -> Xav writes on CC* every night ...
-Dec 27, 2009 computer distribution of the "Libretto of St Christ."
Xavier is banned on CC. He creates another account.
2nd report against the sect, reveals that the group is still active, renewed activity for years, Bertram took over from his father as chief financial officer, pays the gddl bills. XDDL then approaches the group, also registered on CC, still interested in THEOLOGY, consults Bertram by email. AGNES worried / grip of gddl on xddl, FEAR.
2010
January 2010 last meeting XDDL CV. She talks about a lawyer ...
Letter to his mistress Catherine. While he has to repay Catherine's loan: 50,000, suicide blackmail letter: his "current life" will end in a few months if he does not find 25,000 immediately.
04/29/2010-Xddl connects to Cité Catholique to discuss the need for sacrifices, and revives the conversation for a month.
Xddl to CV, talks about "burning the family", to the lawyer: "bankruptcy, insolvent, homeless soon"
-05/07/2010-Visit of a bailiff mandated by the mistress of Xddl (Catherine), with a view to foreclosure on her income. He was due to repay on July 3.
Family vacations near Montpellier at MR (except Arthur).
end of August / September: (Letter from Xddl to Michel and Emmanuel evoking individual or “collective” suicide already mentioned in the letter to his mistress of January 14, 2010.And instructions for afterwards (Dispositions.doc). Letter titled: "Ligonnès family issues and perspectives (absence of ...)"
September 17th-Anne takes letter from bailiff she's still in her pj's.
NOV 10 2010 conversation on FB Anne + Agnès // death "the most perfect form of existence" according to Agnès.
(Agnès on antidepressants and anxiolytics for several months at the time of her death, but no suicidal tendency, projects, commitments, ex. full-time job from Sept 2011)
2011
At the start of 2011, a big contract ... did not happen.
20/01/2011
Death of the Count of Hubert Dupont de Ligonnès. (Heart attack. Xav withdraws up to 6,700 euros from his father's accounts ). End of January Father's rifle found, reconstituted, revised and repaired by the director of TIR. XAV DRINKS A LOT!
February
Xddl applies for a shooting license
Xavier takes his family for farewell visits to the family.
February 25 a friend commits suicide at 53 / debt / professional failure, 5 children, Xav very shocked.
March
1 month before murders, husband of a friend of vddl who committed suicide, Baron, Versailles, 53 years old, 5 children, debts / model family in vddl's eyes. Xddl: "it's abominable, monster, to leave children and wife ALIVE, with nothing to live on", 3 years later the wife also dies at 53 years old.
12/03/2011
- Xav and Benoit at funeral mass in La Rochelle, 1 witness will go on June 4 and 21 to testify to the police // child trembling in all his limbs, crying a lot, Xav shows him stained glass resurrection, crying which redoubles, the witness wants give water to B. refusal of Xav!
Purchase of silencer and ammunition
March Emmanuel Teneur: xav shoots in his garden / balloon, with the 22 silenced, Emmanuel tries out the weapon ((lies to the police when he claims to have never seen the weapon in operation)).
03/15/2011 Xav / family / Versailles: "farewell" visit,
MARCH 2011 xddl recontacts Catherine R, see you in Chamonix week of 12/4? Coincidence, “xddl” saw Nice car rental company where a “Catherine R” rented 1 car… Disambiguation. CR, strange message on 5/20, from a stranger, Philippe Steiner, profile deleted before his reply
-26/03/2011
Xddl prints Non-Pledge Certificates for Agnès Golf and Arthur's Xantia.
-31/03/2011
Brigitte L / prayer group, sees Agnès for the last time, very anxious. Heavy threats. Nothing about Xav's possible suicidal tendency.
Agnès asked to pray for them // threats received, the witness is thinking of CDDL and GDDL !
Apparently in October 2011 someone complained of having discovered in the file these threats, which forced Agnès to change phone number and email.
April 2011
-Purchase of cement, rubble bags, spade. SO1: Orvault Castorama: 2 10KG prompt cement bags, 2 gray adhesive rolls, 12 extra reinforced 50L rubble bags, a Lorraine hoe, a spade)
Emmanuel sees Xddl in the company of his 2 sons at the shooting range for the last time, an appointment taken for baptism of shooting offered by E, scheduled for April 9.
-Xddl sends 1 second letter to his mistress Catherine V: personal letter / Australia, he accuses her of having screwed up their relationship, "her money" makes her paranoid, (cf. letter of contrition from Agnes, same spirit) "no one will find me". ((Catherine received this final letter from Xavier on 9 April 2011, which means it must have been posted 3 or 4 Apr. ??
2/04/2011 Saturday
-Purchase of quicklime by xddl (SO1 4 bags, Xav also buys stamps and fills up GASOLINE).
Benoit spends the night at his friends house, comes back in the morning for the mass.
Agnès / conference / autism 9 am-5:30pm in St Herblain, which contradicts the thesis of preparations for the big trip ((Reality of this presence of Agnes at this conference is doubtful ??))
7:07 p.m. to 7:50 p.m. ET calls xddl 5 times, talked together 43 minutes
Sunday
ET calls xddl twice which does not respond to tel
Arthur ... at the pizzeria from 11 a.m. to 2:55 p.m
(Arthur told his friends he won't be available during weekend. Anne said to her friends something similar, on 5th of April Thomas supposedly received a text massage from his mother.For CDDL a proof that Agnes is alive! Because Xav on phone at the same time .... - as if he couldn't answer a text message on another phone ...))
4 p.m. return of Agnès and Anne ((return from where ??))
5pm Thomas goes back to Anger.
That night family goes to cinema and restaurant.
21st april the bodies are found.
​
​
I translated some points from this facebook group post . There is so much more points and information in there i just translated the ones that stuck to me the most. Feel free to point any mistakes i used a translator so some of the translations might be weird. I tried my best to correct them.
CC*-cite catolique

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bonjour,
J'aurai bien aimé de l'aide a relever les figures de styles etc dans ce poème de Jacques Prevert : Citroën.

Citroën

À la porte des maisons closes C’est une petite lueur qui luit… Mais sur Paris endormi, une grande lumière s’étale : Une grande lumière grimpe sur la tour, Une lumière toute crue. C’est la lanterne du bordel capitaliste, Avec le nom du tôlier qui brille dans la nuit.

Citroën ! Citroën !

Lanterne du bordel capitaliste, 1933

C’est le nom d’un petit homme, Un petit homme avec des chiffres dans la tête, Un petit homme avec un sale regard derrière son lorgnon, Un petit homme qui ne connaît qu’une seule chanson, Toujours la même.

Bénéfices nets… Millions… Millions…

Une chanson avec des chiffres qui tournent en rond, 500 voitures, 600 voitures par jour. Trottinettes, caravanes, expéditions, auto-chenilles, camions…

Bénéfices nets… Millions… Millions…Citron… Citron

Et le voilà qui se promène à Deauville, Le voilà à Cannes qui sort du Casino

Le voilà à Nice qui fait le beau Sur la promenade des Anglais avec un petit veston clair, Beau temps aujourd’hui ! le voilà qui se promène qui prend l’air.

Il prend l’air des ouvriers, il leur prend l’air, le temps, la vie Et quand il y en a un qui crache ses poumons dans l’atelier, Ses poumons abîmés par le sable et les acides, il lui refuse Une bouteille de lait. Qu’est-ce que ça peut bien lui foutre, Une bouteille de lait ? Il n’est pas laitier… Il est Citroën.

Il a son nom sur la tour, il a des colonels sous ses ordres. Des colonels gratte-papier, garde-chiourme, espions. Des journalistes mangent dans sa main. Le préfet de police rampe sous son paillasson.

Citron ?… Citron ?… Millions… Millions…

Et si le chiffre d’affaires vient à baisser, pour que malgré tout Les bénéfices ne diminuent pas, il suffit d’augmenter la cadence et de Baisser les salaires des ouvriers

Baisser les salaires

Mais ceux qu’on a trop longtemps tondus en caniches, Ceux-là gardent encore une mâchoire de loup Pour mordre, pour se défendre, pour attaquer, Pour faire la grève… La grève…

Vive la grève !

(My first post here. Nervous! Please let me know if I've done it wrong.)
About a year and a half ago, I was reading Juliet Nicholson's The Great Silence (Grove Press, 2009). It was enjoyable, although sad, because it was about the end of WWI and the changes it had made to society. And then I got past the discussion of mourning etc. and it turned into the positive effects, which of course led into ... Chanel. And I honestly never finished the book.
The thing about Coco Chanel, possibly one of the most famous fashion designers of history today, is that she was a great teller of myths. Some of this was personal to her - her parentage and upbringing were obscure and depressing, and she wanted to conceal them - and some of it was the bluster and self-aggrandizing that you get with a lot of people hailed as geniuses, especially in the fashion world. But because of a combination of Chanel's own stories and humanity's love of simplified narratives about individuals changing the course of history, she's the queen of bad fashion history. (Well, maybe she ties with Catherine de' Medici and the idea that she forced the women of the French court to wear iron corsets with 13" waists.) And it generally goes uncorrected - this is just a more detailed version of the narrative you hear about Chanel everywhere. BUT NOT ANYMORE.
Here's the offending passage (the pages can be read in full on Google Books:

In November 1919 pictures of Gabrielle Chanel's chemise dress had filled the pages of Vogue: 'A gown that swathes the figure in straight soft folds, falling at the sides in little cascades.' The editorial commended Chanel's reliance on an uncluttered natural beauty, with a dress that showed only a slender pair of shoulder straps holding it up. The subsequent single-page spread devoted to Madame Lucile's chiffons and to Poiret's plumes seemed to be included simply out of respect for the old masters and appeared fearfully outdated. ... Once the matchless pace setter of individuality in fashion, Poiret snorted that her clothes resembled 'Cages lacking birds. Hives lacking bees.'
One other French designer, Madeleine Vionnet, managed to survive the transition through the war years and become part of the revolution in fashion. Vionnet cleverly amalgamated a still lingering desire for femininity with the wish to dress without the restricting comfort of corsetry. ... But it was the androgyny promoted by Chanel that dominated women's fashion in Europe in 1919. ...
During the war she discovered the versatility of jersey cloth as used by stable lads for shirts for training sessions, and began to make sweaters and waistless dresses for women from the same supple fabric. The ornate Edwardian costume that according to a scornful Chanel had 'stifled the body's architecture' started to disappear. Chanel was after 'moral honesty' in the way women presented themselves. She had gauged the time for voicing these feelings to perfection. ...
The flamboyant colors of Paul Poiret's pre-war designs and the theatricality of Bakst's influential costumes for the Ballets Russes suddenly seemed tawdry and overdone. ... A look of luxury was achievable through the severity of simplicity. Expensive poverty was the aim. She dared to suggest that clothes themselves had ceased to matter and that it was the individual who counted.
She cut her hair short 'because it annoyed me'. Everyone cut off their hair in imitation. ... The British aristocracy came to Paris to be close to the source of inspiration. ... As hem lengths rose and flowerpot hats moulded themselves to the side of the head, a voluntary simplification of clothing spread across a wide spectrum of society.

When I originally went at this on my blog, I did it point-by-point. And that works in a certain sense, but why I'm ultimately unsatisfied is that that way doesn't clarify the bigger pictures of a) the fashion world of the time or b) how The Chanel Myth distorts it and why it does.
The couture house tradition that we know today - celebrity designers, runway models, collections - was born in the 1870s; the original couture houses that were still in business by 1900 were only still in business because there was a transfer of power to a new generation. Mainly, this new generation consisted of the sons of the older one. Where today it's normal for the name to go on while head designers change, it was more common then for it to be inherited by a family member or sold to someone else who would work under their own name. (The exception is Redfern: John Redfern was succeeded by his protégé Charles Poynter, who took the name Charles Poynter Redfern in order to make it all legitimate.) Apart from these - Worth, Doucet, Redfern - the major houses that were active at the same time as Gabrielle Chanel, who opened her original dressmaking establishments in 1913, were being run by the same people that started them. They were opening gradually from the mid-1890s through the early 1910s: there was always new blood coming in, and she was competing in large part with relative newcomers rather than a solid establishment where she was a pioneer.
Lucile (Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon) and Paul Poiret, the two called "old masters" in The Great Silence, are fairly well-known today, and are popularly seen as the polar opposites representative of women's dress in the 1910s: she is stereotyped as chiffon and lace and pastels, he as bright colors and simple cuts. They in no way stood head and shoulders above Chéruit, Paquin, Beer, Jenny, or Lanvin, though, all of whom also appear in the pages of the exclusive and expensive Gazette du Bon Ton, along with the actual "old masters", Worth, Doucet, and Redfern. They were very successful, but their being remembered is not a good indication that they were the pre-eminent couturiers of the period. I'm not sure what the term is for this bias (familiarity or mere exposure effect? survivorship bias?), but it's pernicious.
(Poiret's quote about "hives lacking bees" is often used as indicative of a big change in the fashionable body around this time, but the funny thing is that Poiret had always been designing for a thin, small-breasted figure. The difference between his ideal figure and that of the 1920s is tiny.)
It's impossible to point a finger at any couturier as a tide-changer. Fashion at this time was highly documented and moved incrementally - examinations of the Gazette du Bon Ton and the slightly more egalitarian Harper's Bazaar and Vogue show that all designers were updating their silhouettes and styles on a regular basis, as the changes flowed logically from one year's fashions into the next. Throughout the 1910s, simplicity was a high priority in design - it wasn't an invention in 1919. It's variously attributed to Mariano Fortuny, inventor of the Delphos dress in 1907; Lucile, creator of the first evening dress intended to be worn without a corset, also in 1907; and Poiret, because he said that he designed the first dresses intended to be worn without a corset as well. Which just goes to show how prevailing ideas in fashion and the arts tend to come from more complex social forces than one person having a specific good idea.
Throughout the 1910s, you can see the beginning of 1920s fashion. In the high-waisted, narrow-skirted part of the decade (roughly 1911-1914), there is no narrow waist to speak of, and a columnar silhouette that seriously resembles that of the 1920s. During the war years, the waistline dropped while remaining loose and skirts flared and shortened, leading the way for the narrow silhouette to come back with a shorter skirt and looser, lower waistline. Simple, clean, loose evening gowns with light straps were already a part of fashion by 1919, and another iteration of them should not be seen as something groundbreaking. Even a dress that slipped over the head without fastenings was in existence by 1916.
(Something else in existence by 1916 was the bob. Popularized by the dancer Irene Castle after her hair was cut in the hospital, it was first known as the "Castle bob". Chanel actually told multiple stories about her invention of the bob after the fact, and after Irene Castle had been forgotten by history.)
Paris was a difficult place to sell dresses to rich women during World War I, but all of the couture houses got back into the swing afterward - not just Chanel and Vionnet. The earliest to drop was technically Lucile, but this is because Lady Duff-Gordon left the company in 1922 for legal reasons, and it didn't survive without her. After the stock market crash - that's when the great firms started to close their doors. Poiret shut down in 1929; Beer merged with Drécoll in 1929-1930, and Doucet merged with Doeuillet at the same time; Agnes merged with Drécoll in 1931; Premet closed in 1931; Redfern closed in 1932; Drécoll-Doeuillet closed in the early 1930s; Chéruit closed in 1935; Boué Soeurs closed in 1937; Jenny closed in 1938. The advent of WWII didn't help either: the Paris couture houses closed down, and Vionnet and Callot Soeurs both failed to reopen afterward.
Chanel's success and increased visibility after WWI can be partially attributed to her having been based in the resort towns of Biarritz and Deauville. Biarritz is just across the border from neutral Spain, far from the fighting, and Deauville hosted soldiers in hospitals while the casinos remained open. She had an advantage that couturiers based in Paris and with much smaller operations in the resort towns lacked during that specific period - a huge advantage that gets downplayed in favor of the idea that Chanel was just "better" than everyone else. At the same time, it's important to realize how limited her success was at that time. Far from suddenly becoming the biggest name in postwar fashion, she was just one of the crowd.
I contacted a friend/colleague who is still at the Fashion Institute of Technology and has access to their archives, and she examined both the November 1 and November 15, 1919 issues of Vogue for me. The truth? On the 1st, there's a short description of her collection with three sketches (very normal for Vogue), and a mention of the Princesse de Broglie wearing Chanel. On the 15th, there's another mention of the princess and one dress illustrated among those of other designers. Lucile is not mentioned at all. Poiret gets one dress illustration and one mention. Her domination of Vogue in November 1919 never happened. I have no idea where it came from, as the book is not well cited. But it's completely invented.
In fact, Chanel does not turn up frequently in fashion magazines in the early 1920s. The couture houses of the 1910s do instead - there's no sudden break where they all drop out. There are many issues of Vogue where she doesn't turn up at all, and there are plenty of other couturiers described as innovative and on-trend. Primary sources don't bear out the notion of Chanel as an overwhelmingly successful agent of change to anywhere near the same degree as her personal stories post-WWI, when her 1910s-1920s contemporaries had shut down or died and were largely forgotten. The narrative works because it turns the complexity of history into a straightforward hero narrative where one visionary individual changes the tide because they're simply superior to everyone else, and people like to read that. It's shameless, but it's understandable why it's bought.
(Not even getting into her WWII shenanigans, this post has been long enough in the making.)

The European Poker Tour is already the most popular competition on the old continent, but this edition promises to be truly special. It will also cross a psychological threshold, as the 100th event will take place in August in Barcelona and records are expected to be broken in terms of attendance and prizes. Last season's attendance offers a taste of what is to come as nearly 10k people participated in one of the events that were a part of the Barcelona Poker Festival. The EPT as a whole was even more impressive and 40,000 bought in one of the festivals scattered throughout the year. 4000 more will lock horns later this month when the Monte-Carlo Casino EPT Grand Final starts, but the best is yet to come. Once Season 11 begins in August, the changes required by poker players will be implemented and more Omaha, HORSE and Stud will be added. Deuces Wild and Crazy Pineapple will be some welcomed distractions from the somewhat stressful main events, while the tournaments dedicated to Women and Seniors are also great additions. The latter are introduced in premiere, while the former were made more accessible by having the buy-in decreased from €300 to €200. Moneywise, players will also be thrilled to hear that the EPT London Main Event will only set them back £4,000 + £250, which is a steep markdown. This festival will start on October 8th and come to an end 10 days later, less than two months after Season 11 kicks off in Barcelona. The first EPT stop will bring players together and will run in parallel with Estrellas Poker Tour, making August a truly special month for poker players. The last important tournament of the year is going to be EPT Prague which runs in December, but 2015 will start on a high note, with the EPT Deauville stop. The European Poker Tour came a long way since its inception and the interest for both the Main Events and side tournaments is still on the rise. The dates for the upcoming tour have been confirmed and these are the ones that poker players should keep in mind: • EPT Barcelona August 16 - 27, 2014; EPT Main Event August 21-27• EPT London October 8-18, 2014; EPT Main Event October 12-18• EPT Prague December 7-17, 2014; EPT Main Event December 11-17• EPT Deauville January 28 - February 7, 2015, EPT Main Event February 1-7• EPT Grand Final April 29 - May 8, 2015 EPT Main Event May 2-5
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Everything has been sanitized Prices may be negotiable; feel free to make offers. perfume samples can be thrown in free with purchase/swap. Also willing to throw <$1 items in for free with purchase/swap. I'm also willing to discount if you bundle items.
WILL GET RID OF ENTIRE LOT FOR $25
Verification|Flair
Selling
Stila Stay All Day Liquid Lipstick - Bellissima; used 2x - $15 shipped
GIvenchy Very Irresistible sample
Gucci Première sample
Sephora lipstick tote & Sephora small make up pouch. - free with purchase/swap
Dior Nude 020 sample - free with purchase/swap
Nars Sheer Glow in Deauville sample - free with purchase/swap
Buxom insider liner in black jasper, usage shown - $12 shipped
Wen Sweet Almond Mint Cleansing Conditioner 60ml, I'd say maybe a little less than half left. - $6 shipped
Victoria Secret make up bag, a little dirty on inside but you can wash it - $3
Sephora make up pouch, spots on outside but clean on side - free with swap/purchase
Crocheted clutch that I made; unused - $5
Kat Von D Lock-It Foundation in Light 48 foil sample, unused
Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow in "Cheers to Me" Champagne sample, unused .1fl oz
Benefit it's potent sample, unused
Elf eyeshadow, swatched - $.50
contacts case holder + contacts case, unused - $1
feather earrings, never worn - $0.50
Armani Code sample, usage shown
Nest sample, usage shown
Marchesa sample, usage shown
Wishlist
Make-Up
-Nars Blushes in Deep Throat, Outlaw, Sex Appeal, Unlawful, Madly, Oasis, Satellite of Love, Miss Liberty, and Sin/Casino duo. -Nars Rotonde Blush -Illamasqua Blusher in Hussy or Lover -Urban Decay Naked Flushed in Naked -MAC Lipstick samples in Diva (or full sized depending on price) -Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid Lipstick - Bauhau5 (preferably unused) -Revlon Age Defying with Botafirm for Dry Skin or Normal/Combo skin in either Natural Beige or Soft Beige -sample of L'Oreal True Match Lumi (preferably in Natural Buff or a colour close to that) -Guerlain Terracotta Kohl Liner (preferably in Noir) -Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder -MUG shadows/blushes (except blush colours: Honeymoon, Romance, Spellbound) -Maybelline Color Sensational Creamy Matte Lip Color - Lust for Blush -Nyx Matte Lipsticks in Whipped Cavier or Natural -BareMinerals Black Make Up Bag -Tarte Maracuja Bronzing Serum -Colourpop Lippie in Cake
Nails
-Deborah Lippmann True Blood (Trio, duo, and nail polish + lip sets) -Essie Shine of the Times -Mint(preferably China Glaze Re-fresh Mint) and Coral nail polish -China Glaze That's Shore Bright -Hard Candy: King of Pop
Fragrance
-Boucheron sample
Feel free to suggest I look at your swap list if you have one. Maybe you have something that I didn't think to list in my wishlist. :]

Everything has been sanitized Prices is negotiable; feel free to make offers.
WILL GET RID OF ENTIRE LOT FOR $25
Verification|Flair
Selling
GIvenchy Very Irresistible sample
Gucci Première sample
Sephora lipstick tote & Sephora small make up pouch.
Dior Nude 020 sample
Nars Sheer Glow in Deauville sample
Buxom insider liner in black jasper, usage shown
Wen Sweet Almond Mint Cleansing Conditioner 60ml, I'd say maybe a little less than half left.
Victoria Secret make up bag, a little dirty on inside but you can wash it
Sephora make up pouch, spots on outside but clean on side
Crocheted clutch that I made; unused
Kat Von D Lock-It Foundation in Light 48 foil sample, unused
Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow in "Cheers to Me" Champagne sample, unused .1fl oz
Benefit it's potent sample, unused
Elf eyeshadow, swatched
contacts case holder + contacts case, unused
feather earrings, never worn
Armani Code sample, usage shown
Nest sample, usage shown
Marchesa sample, usage shown
Wishlist
Make-Up
-Nars Blushes in Deep Throat, Outlaw, Sex Appeal, Unlawful, Madly, Oasis, Satellite of Love, Miss Liberty, and Sin/Casino duo. -Illamasqua Blusher in Hussy or Lover -Urban Decay Naked Flushed in Naked -MAC Lipstick samples in Diva (or full sized depending on price) -Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid Lipstick - Bauhau5 (preferably unused) -Revlon Age Defying with Botafirm for Dry Skin in either Natural Beige or Soft Beige -sample of L'Oreal True Match Lumi (preferably in Natural Buff or a colour close to that) -Guerlain Terracotta Kohl Liner (preferably in Noir) -Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder (sample) -MUG shadows (depending on colour of eyeshadow and/or loose pigment) & blushes in Summer Fling, Bliss, Infatuation, and Smitten -Nyx Matte Lipsticks in Whipped Cavier or Natural -Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes 11L Purple -Colourpop Matte Lippie or Button -Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick mini (preferably) in Bitch Perfect -NYX Wicked Lippie in Wrath. -Melt Cosmetics in Belladonna 2 -Anatasia Beverly Hills Liquid Lipstick in Sad Girl
Nails
-Deborah Lippmann True Blood (Trio, duo, and nail polish + lip sets) -Mint(preferably China Glaze Re-fresh Mint) and Coral nail polish -China Glaze That's Shore Bright -Hard Candy: King of Pop -Cult Nails in Disillusion
Fragrance
-Boucheron sample
Feel free to suggest I look at your swap list if you have one. Maybe you have something that I didn't think to list in my wishlist. :]

Everything has been sanitized Prices is negotiable; feel free to make offers.
Verification|Flair
Selling
GIvenchy Very Irresistible sample
Gucci Première sample
Sephora lipstick tote & Sephora small make up pouch.
Dior Nude 020 sample
Nars Sheer Glow in Deauville sample
Buxom insider liner in black jasper, usage shown
Wen Sweet Almond Mint Cleansing Conditioner 60ml, I'd say maybe a little less than half left.
Victoria Secret make up bag, a little dirty on inside but you can wash it
Sephora make up pouch, spots on outside but clean on side
Crocheted clutch that I made; unused
Kat Von D Lock-It Foundation in Light 48 foil sample, unused
Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow in "Cheers to Me" Champagne sample, unused .1fl oz
Benefit it's potent sample, unused
Elf eyeshadow, swatched
contacts case holder + contacts case, unused
feather earrings, never worn
Armani Code sample, usage shown
Nest sample, usage shown
Marchesa sample, usage shown
Wishlist
Make-Up
-Nars Blushes in Deep Throat, Outlaw, Sex Appeal, Unlawful, Madly, Oasis, Taos, Satellite of Love, Miss Liberty, and Sin/Casino duo. -Illamasqua Blusher in Hussy or Lover -Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid Lipstick - Bauhau5 (preferably unused) -Revlon Age Defying with Botafirm for Dry Skin in either Natural Beige or Soft Beige -sample of L'Oreal True Match Lumi (preferably in Natural Buff or a colour close to that) -Guerlain Terracotta Kohl Liner (preferably in Noir) -Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder (sample) -MUG shadows (depending on colour of eyeshadow and/or loose pigment) & blushes in Summer Fling, Bliss, Infatuation, and Smitten -Colourpop Matte Lippie (preferably in Grind) -Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick mini (preferably) in Bitch Perfect -Melt Cosmetics in Belladonna 2 -Anatasia Beverly Hills Liquid Lipstick in Sad Girl
Nails
-Deborah Lippmann True Blood (Trio, duo, and nail polish + lip sets) -Mint(preferably China Glaze Re-fresh Mint) and Coral nail polish -Cult Nails in Disillusion
Fragrance
-Boucheron sample
Feel free to suggest I look at your swap list if you have one. Maybe you have something that I didn't think to list in my wishlist. :]

[OC] Now that restrictions have eased for U.S. travel to Cuba, the former mafia-run restaurants, nightclubs, and hotels of pre-revolution Havana await rediscovery.
There are an amazing number of sites that have survived 55 years of neglect in Havana that give the feeling of a time when mobsters like Meyer Lansky and Santo Trafficante Jr. ran the roulette wheels, crap games, and card tables in posh joints across the city.
By 1958, the Mob had finally completed their fabulous hotels and casinos that were transforming Havana into the Las Vegas of the Caribbean. Take a walk to the corner of 21st and N streets where you’ll find Santo Trafficante’s ultra-mod 1956 Hotel Capri. On the morning of the revolution, casino host George Raft stood atop a craps table and successfully held back the pitchforked mob by offering a free buffet in exchange for not torching the place. Since then the hotel’s been renovated but it continues to evoke a cool midcentury modern vibe.
Wandering down the hill to the bottom of 21st Street you’ll find the historic Hotel Nacional de Cuba that overlooks the sea. Built in 1930, the Nacional hosted Lucky Luciano’s infamous 1946 mafia summit attended by the biggest gangsters of the era, including Lansky, Trafficante, Frank Costello, Albert Anastasia, Vito Genovese, Joe Adonis, Joe and Rocco Fischetti, and Moe Dalitz. On hand to entertain was the young mob-darling Frank Sinatra. Explore the hotel and then relax on the veranda with a frosty mojito and President Kennedy’s favorite Cuban cigar, a Montecristo No. 2.
Just down the seaside highway from the Nacional is Meyer Lansky’s spectacular Havana Riviera, a 21-story midcentury modern masterpiece built in 1957. It’s as over-the-top as the Fontainebleau in Miami Beach, yet as sleek and sophisticated as the Rat Pack’s Sands Hotel once was in Las Vegas. In fact, the Havana Riviera is now the best-preserved example of a swank 1950s Vegas/Miami Beach resort hotel in the world. Standing in the lobby you are transported to the height of pre-Castro glamour as it once existed in Havana. Go there before some clown remakes it into yet another sterile Hyatt or Marriott.
Visible from anywhere in the city, the towering, elegant 1958 Habana Hilton at the crest of 23rd street was renamed the Habana Libre when Castro took over on New Year’s Day. Just one year earlier, feared capo Albert Anastasia had been murdered while getting a shave at a New York hotel reportedly because he had pushed too hard in trying to take control of the Habana Hilton’s yet-to-open casino. The hotel also houses a former Trader Vic’s Polynesian barestaurant. Renamed the “Polinesio,” it has been in a Cinderella slumber, remaining an unaltered example of the style. While the food and drinks may have suffered, the Tiki Modern décor is astounding.
Scattered around Havana are other Mob-controlled hotels and upscale restaurants, including the hotels Deauville and St. Johns, and the Louis XIV style Monseigneur restaurant (with Meyer Lansky as part owner) located across from the Hotel Nacional. Check out amazing vintage photos at HavanaBeforeCastro.com that provides addresses for you to explore all of these mob-related sites.
There has never been a better time to immerse yourself in Havana’s mafia-related past. Go now.